Surfing
The weekend wasn't all conflict. I got to go surfing for the first time and I fell in love with it immediately. Moving with waves. Sometimes I was able to catch one and ride it out for a little while. Speed and motion always get me high. And when Mother Nature is providing them for free, they're even better. I wasn't always catching a free ride though. In fact, most of the time I was flying off my board head first into the turbulent sea. It must've looked pretty good, because when I finally got my feet on the sand and shook the water out of my head, people were giving me a big thumps-up.
I like floating out on the board, just watching the sea, waiting for a good wave. Surrounded by other surfers, like ducks in water, the scattered flock waits in silent meditation. Underneath vast blue skies, the steady sound of waves crashing on the beach, and rough cliffs of sand in the distance, ... waiting... floating... and then you see it... a big wave... you spin around with excitement, get on your stomach and start to paddle... if you're lucky... and the wave is right ... you'll feel it... you've caught it... and then you push up onto your feet and move around trying to get your balance. Maybe you will, maybe you won't, but it doesn't matter. All that matters is that you're out there.
Anyway, here's a few pics from the weekend...
The view from our cabin:

After a long day of getting beat-up by the waves:

Newport Bay:

The birthday boy:

I like floating out on the board, just watching the sea, waiting for a good wave. Surrounded by other surfers, like ducks in water, the scattered flock waits in silent meditation. Underneath vast blue skies, the steady sound of waves crashing on the beach, and rough cliffs of sand in the distance, ... waiting... floating... and then you see it... a big wave... you spin around with excitement, get on your stomach and start to paddle... if you're lucky... and the wave is right ... you'll feel it... you've caught it... and then you push up onto your feet and move around trying to get your balance. Maybe you will, maybe you won't, but it doesn't matter. All that matters is that you're out there.
Anyway, here's a few pics from the weekend...
The view from our cabin:

After a long day of getting beat-up by the waves:

Newport Bay:

The birthday boy:

Labels: photography, surfing


